If you're a stranger to the decidedly
unassimilated Bukharan restaurants of New York, you might be a little taken aback at this Uzbeki family restaurant, where diners eat sizzling lamb fat kebabs, brazenly light up cigarettes at the table, and revel noisily in rich, unctuous dishes like plov (pilaf, filled with chunks of, what else, lamb) and manti (lamb empanadas.) Interestingly one of the best things here, the Tashkent salad, has what is described as "boiled beef" in it, but it's something much better than that.
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